![]() ![]() Spray it on, spread it around and give it five minutes to soak into the tape. If it' still not working, and if you're using paper transfer tape (not clear), you can moisten the back of the tape with application fluid to soften the tape's adhesive and weaken the bond between the tape and the vinyl. Use good firm squeegee pressure to press the film onto the wood and, if it's not sticking, give it up to 20 minutes to set before you try to remove the tape. This is more common with acrylic adhesives. This is not necessarily a sign of failure. Sometimes when you remove the transfer tape, the letter come up with it. If you're having trouble, try a different kind of vinyl, or purchase one with a solvent-based adhesive to give yourself the best chance of success.Įven when you have everything right, sometimes the challenges of the porous substrate make it hard for the vinyl's adhesive to bond or 'wet out' quickly. Solvent based adhesives are a little more effective on porous or less than ideal surfaces like wood and stainless steel. You can read the full story in our Adhesives 101 article, but the short summary is this. There are differences in the performance of acrylic and solvent-based adhesives that can affect adhesion to non-standard substrates. This is often a precursor for eventual adhesive failure.įor more tips about suitable substrates, visit and read the FAQ. Trapped VOCs can also cause bubbles to appear under the vinyl. This can cause adhesive failure after application. Fresh paint emits VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that may react chemically with the vinyl's adhesive and degrade it. Make sure if you're putting vinyl on any painted surface that the paint is completely cured. If you can't find One Shot, try an enamel paint. The best paints to use are those developed for sign making, like 1 Shot brand. There are two things to watch out for porous paints that won't make a good seal with the adhesive, and uncured paint. How to Make it Work BetterĪnother question we hear often is about what kind of painted substrates are suitable. ![]() If you absolutely must use unsealed wood for your vinyl graphics, keepsake, or bit of rustic restaurant decor, sand it first to get it as smooth as possible. ![]() But If you choose MDO, please make sure it’s properly prepared and painted. MDO plywood composite is also a commonly used sign substrate. There are different trade names for these, but if you look for Alumacore, Alumalite, or DIBOND®, you’ll be able to find a reliable substrate for long term outdoor signage. These products are comprised of a sheet of aluminum laminated to a thick, flex resistant core made of a corrugated composite or plastic product. The most compatible options will be aluminum composite materials. For larger graphics, heavier substrates are required. The vinyl may stick initially, but sooner or later (probably sooner), it's going to come off.įor long term outdoor graphics, the smooth substrates mentioned above are the best choice. Rough surfaces like unfinished wood will not provide a sufficient bond with the adhesives used on vinyl films. ![]() This requires the use of very smooth substrates like glass, corrugated plastic, foam core, and painted aluminum. To achieve that longevity, the adhesive must have a firm bond with the substrate. Vinyl is an adhesive backed film that is expected to last for years outdoors in all kinds of weather. Wood is not the best choice for VinylĪctually unsealed wood, plywood and even painted plywood are not good substrates for vinyl. But there are ways to make it work and things to avoid. When vinyl doesn't stick to wood, the problem is usually with the wood. As the old Porgy and Bess song says, "It ain't necessarily so". Many people call asking why their vinyl won't stick to the wood and assume there's a defect with the vinyl. As craft and hobby vinyl enthusiasts discover the appeal of rustic substrates, we receive more questions about putting vinyl on wood blanks. One of the most frequently asked questions we receive deals with substrates. ![]()
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